Gun Rack

Posted by By at 6 December, at 11 : 25 AM Print

Gun Rack
I designed and built this gun rack to serve a practical need. I got tired of stashing my firearms in random corners of the house and decided to consolidate them in one area along with ammo, cleaning kits and related supplies. I designed this gun rack to meet those needs and be relatively quick and inexpensive to build. The design and construction is utilitarian in nature and not very showy. It is reasonably attractive however, and fun project to tackle. You can expect to spend about 8-10 hours to complete this project, not including time spent buying materials and finding tools.
Gun Rack_Page_1
1x12x6 Qty 3
1x4x6 Qty 1
#10 3″ stainless steel screws Qty 6
#8 1 1/2″ stainless steel screws Qty 1 packet
3M super 77 adhesive (optional)
Indoor outdoor carpet (optional)
Sandpaper (120, 160, 220)
Shop rags
I spent $50 on the wood for this build plus $15 for the hardware. The indoor/outdoor carpet was left over from another job, and the glue, gloves, rags and stain are items I normally keep on hand. I spent $65 for materials I bought specifically for this project, but you should expect to spend more if you don’t have any supplies on hand.

Gun rack 1

Gun Rack 2

Table saw (optional)
Circular saw
1 1/2″ hole saw
Orbital sander (optional)
Oscillating spindle sander (optional)
Tape measure
The tools listed here are what I used on the project. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t have all of them. The orbital sander and oscillating spindle sander are luxury items for example. They make life easier and the finishing process will go faster if you have them, but you can always sand by hand. The same thing applies to the table saw. It’s nice to have, but you can make all of these cuts with a circular saw if need be. Look at which tools are available to you and find a way to get it done. There are always multiple ways to skin a cat.
Cut list:
First thing you need to do is cut the lumber to length. You should cut your boards cut to the following lengths:
4 – 1x12s 36″ long
2 – 1x12s 34 1/2″ long
1 – 1×4 36″ long
1 – 1×4 34 1/2″ long
Next, the sides have to be cut at an angle. To do this I used a simple jig I made for a table saw. A picture of it is below. I just slapped it together with scraps I had lying around. It makes cutting consistent angles a lot easier. If you don’t have a table saw or jig, you can always free hand it with a circular saw.
You are also going to have to rip one of the 34 1/2″ 1x12s down. The lip of the shelf is ripped to 1 1/2″ wide and the back part of the shelf is ripped to 4 1/2″ wide.
You can focus on the top piece with the notches after those cuts are made. The top piece is made out of the 34 1/2″ long 1×4. To cut the notches out I used a 1 1/2″ hole saw and cut the straight line with a jig saw to complete the notch. If you don’t have a hole saw and jig saw you  can always accomplish the same thing with a spade bit and hack saw.
Preparation is the most important part of finishing any project whether it’s wood, metal, fiberglass, paint or stain. With that being said, I sanded the wood twice. I went over all the pieces with 120 grit sand paper using my orbital sander before I assembled the rack. To sand the notches, I used a oscillating spindle sander which made the process relatively quick. If you don’t have the spindle sander, you can wrap sand paper around a wooden dowel and accomplish the same thing. It will just take a little longer.
I sanded the whole thing again after assembling the rack. I hit all the joints with 120 grit paper to get rid of the glue residue and  even out any bumps. I sanded again with 220 grit before staining.
Wipe the rack down with naphtha to clean it and get rid of any dust left over from sanding. If you  don’t have naphtha, denatured alcohol or something similar will work as well.
For this project, I didn’t bother sealing the wood before I stained it. If you’re using a soft wood like pine and you want an even finish you should seal the wood first. The stain job will likely turn out blotchy if you don’t.
After staining, it’s always a good  idea to put a couple of coats of polyurethane on to seal the wood and protect the finish.
The final step is to glue the indoor/outdoor carpet on the shelves using the 3M super 77 adhesive and you will be ready to hang the rack!



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